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| Chatons de Garde 2012. |
Wine review
4 of 5 stars
A very good wine
The colour is clear, medium ruby with a slight tint of
purple. Tearing in the glass hints towards high alcohol content. The nose is
aromatically multifaceted with pronounced intensity. There are autumnal ripe dark
berries and fruits: cherries and cassis, as well as fresh and dried plums. Animalistic
aroma components of delicate sweat and leather are also present. Fallen leaves
and black pepper complete the bouquet. An image of Rhone vineyard landscape glowing
in the gold of autumn sun forms in my mind.
On the palate the first strike is full bodied, fruity, and round.
However, the mid palate reveals high acidity, high alcohol and great deal of
tannin. The bold acid structure is well in balance with the fruitiness. Tannins
are mouth filling and velvety. They can be felt on the tip and the sides
of the tongue the most. The aromas on the palate follow the impressions of
the nose. The fruity after taste is long and pleasant.
This wine would be beautifully complemented by an aromatic game
stew. However, it would work just fine with a good steak and dark sauce, or
mixed grill and vegetables.
A well integrated, balanced wine. I warmly recommend.
Info in a nutshell
Price examples:
USD 26.99 per bottle at Union Square Wines
EUR 49.50 per bottle at GastropubTuulensuu, Tampere, Finland
Country and region: France, Ardèche, Alba la Romaine
Grape: Syrah 100%
Producer: Andréa Calek
Background
Andrea Calek was born in former Czechoslovakia and currently
lives and works as a winemaker in Ardéche, France. You could call him a bit of
a bohemian of the wine making world, I
guess, since he makes wine with a hard core natural wine philosophy and lives
in a trailer close to his five hectare vineyards.
He came to France in the end of the 80’s, making his way
from behind the iron curtain, which proved to be a challenge. The story
involves a military service in Czechoslovakia, an especially lucky opportunity
to make a trip to France, falling for France, a doctor’s certificate as an
attempt to get discharged from the army, which didn’t work, a return to
Czechoslovakia and military service, and finally finding love in France, which
gave Calek finally an opportunity to return. As a delightful result of his all
this, we now have a chance to enjoy the fruits of his painstaking natural wine
production.
Calek aims at tending to the vineyards and vinifying the
wines so that the outcome would be a seamlessly expressive reflection of the
grape variety and the terroir. Everything that might be considered manipulating
the wine is avoided. Hence, no new oak, no commercial yeasts – you get the
picture. Having tasted Chatons de Garde (eng. Kittens patrolling), (and having
ordered a second glass right away), I have to say that Syrah is downright
glowing in this wine. Calek’s products speak for themselves.
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